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Cotopaxi

Ecuador · 5,897 m

Difficulty

Basic alpine

PD — crevassed glacier at 30–40°

Glacier travel: crampons, ice axe, rope teams.

Typical duration

2–3 days

Permits

Permit or guide required

Certified guide mandatory (1:2 ratio); park entry controlled.

Base

Machachi / Quito

Crowds: high · most parties climb guided

When to go

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Prime season Possible Avoid

Two drier windows: December–January and June–August. Being equatorial, it is climbed year-round when weather allows; wind is the usual spoiler.

The mountain

Cotopaxi is the archetypal guided glacier climb: sleep at the José Rivas refuge at 4,860 m, start at midnight, and crampon up a beautifully sculpted, crevassed cone to a crater rim breathing sulphur at dawn. The route changes yearly as seracs shift, which is why guiding is mandatory. With Quito's easy acclimatisation peaks nearby, it is one of the most efficient places on Earth to reach almost 6,000 m.

Skills you need

  • Crampon and rope-team basics
  • Midnight-start stamina

Main hazards

  • crevasses and seracs
  • altitude
  • wind
  • active-volcano status

Where it is

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Guided expeditions

List last reviewed 2026. Listings, not endorsements — check current permits, safety records, and recent reviews before booking.

Gear checklist

0 of 32 packed

Pack & personal

Clothing & layers

Footwear

Climbing hardware

Camp & sleep

Safety & navigation

Climbs from the José Rivas refugio (bunks/mattresses) — bring a warm bag. A crevassed glacier leads to the summit. A starting point generated from this climb's difficulty, altitude, and length — not a substitute for your guide's list or your own judgment. Confirm what your operator supplies before you buy or rent.

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