← All mountains

Alpamayo

Peru · 5,947 m

Difficulty

Expert / expedition

AD+/D — 400 m of 50–65° fluted ice (Ferrari route)

Sustained technical terrain or extreme-altitude expeditions.

Typical duration

8–12 days

Permits

Fee / registration

Huascarán National Park entry fee; no climbing quota.

Base

Huaraz

Crowds: medium · most parties climb guided

When to go

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Prime season Possible Avoid

The Cordillera Blanca dry season (June–August) offers the famous stable weather; the fluted face needs cold nights to freeze securely.

The mountain

Alpamayo's southwest face is the poster of Andean climbing: parallel flutings of white ice sweeping to a knife summit. The Ferrari route climbs 400 m of sustained 50–65° ice, protected by ice screws and snow stakes, after a multi-day approach and a col camp. It requires genuine ice-climbing competence — this is a step beyond the walk-up 6,000ers, and the reward is one of the most aesthetic summits in mountaineering.

Skills you need

  • Multi-pitch ice climbing (WI3 equivalent)
  • Ice-screw anchors and v-threads
  • Expedition camping

Main hazards

  • sustained steep ice
  • flutings and cornices
  • bergschrund crossings
  • altitude

Where it is

Loading map…

Guided expeditions

List last reviewed 2026. Listings, not endorsements — check current permits, safety records, and recent reviews before booking.

Gear checklist

0 of 40 packed

Pack & personal

Clothing & layers

Footwear

Climbing hardware

Camp & sleep

Safety & navigation

A serious technical ice climb (the SW-face flutings) with a multi-camp approach — two tools, screws, and pickets. Donkeys carry loads to base camp. A starting point generated from this climb's difficulty, altitude, and length — not a substitute for your guide's list or your own judgment. Confirm what your operator supplies before you buy or rent.

Similar mountains

← All mountains