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Eiger

Switzerland · 3,967 m

Difficulty

Technical alpine

AD, rock III–IV (Mittellegi ridge)

Real climbing — steep snow/ice or roped rock at altitude.

Typical duration

2 days

Permits

No permit

No permit; the Mittellegi hut is booked far ahead.

Base

Grindelwald

Crowds: medium · most parties climb guided

When to go

Jan
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Prime season Possible Avoid

July to September for the Mittellegi ridge, after winter snow clears the crest. The infamous North Face is a different world — an expert ice/mixed objective usually climbed in colder conditions.

The mountain

The Mittellegi ridge is one of the great ridge climbs of the Alps: a narrow crest of rock towers with fixed ropes on the steep steps and sensational situations above Grindelwald's meadows. It demands the same speed and exposure-tolerance as the Matterhorn, plus a committing descent over the Eigerjöcher. The 1,800 m North Face (ED2) remains a landmark test for expert alpinists only.

Skills you need

  • Grade III/IV climbing with exposure
  • Ridge down-climbing and abseiling
  • Alpine efficiency

Main hazards

  • exposure
  • storms
  • committing descent
  • loose rock

Where it is

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Guided expeditions

List last reviewed 2026. Listings, not endorsements — check current permits, safety records, and recent reviews before booking.

Gear checklist

0 of 30 packed

Pack & personal

Clothing & layers

Footwear

Climbing hardware

Camp & sleep

Safety & navigation

The Mittellegi ridge sleeps at the staffed Mittellegi Hut, but the approach from the Eismeer station crosses a crevassed glacier — keep full glacier kit. High and cold despite being under 4,000 m — carry a warm down jacket. A starting point generated from this climb's difficulty, altitude, and length — not a substitute for your guide's list or your own judgment. Confirm what your operator supplies before you buy or rent.

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