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Ama Dablam

Nepal · 6,812 m

Difficulty

Expert / expedition

TD− — sustained rock, ice, and exposed ridge (SW Ridge)

Sustained technical terrain or extreme-altitude expeditions.

Typical duration

22–30 days

Permits

Permit or guide required

Nepali expedition permit and agency support required.

Base

Namche Bazaar

Crowds: medium · most parties climb guided

When to go

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
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Jun
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Aug
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Oct
Nov
Dec
Prime season Possible Avoid

Post-monsoon (October–November) is the classic season: stable, cold, clear. Spring works but is warmer with more unsettled spells.

The mountain

Ama Dablam's Southwest Ridge is the finest expedition-scale technical route most alpinists will ever attempt: granite towers to Camp 2, exposed snow-and-ice ridges past the hanging 'dablam' glacier, all at altitudes where everything is slow. Fixed lines protect the cruxes in season, but competence on steep rock and ice remains essential. The Everest-trail approach through Tengboche is itself world-class.

Skills you need

  • Multi-pitch rock and ice competence
  • Jumar and abseil efficiency
  • Prior 6,000 m experience

Main hazards

  • technical terrain at altitude
  • serac hazard near the dablam
  • exposure
  • cold

Where it is

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Guided expeditions

List last reviewed 2026. Listings, not endorsements — check current permits, safety records, and recent reviews before booking.

Gear checklist

0 of 42 packed

Pack & personal

Clothing & layers

Footwear

Climbing hardware

Camp & sleep

High-altitude & expedition

Safety & navigation

Steep, exposed climbing on fixed lines above Camp 1 — carry an ascender. A committing technical peak; strong prior alpine experience expected. A starting point generated from this climb's difficulty, altitude, and length — not a substitute for your guide's list or your own judgment. Confirm what your operator supplies before you buy or rent.

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